Misadventures of Mul Opesayo

There are many many things in Korea that one does not experience in Florida. Last week, I discovered another one.

Here, it gets cold enough for pipes to freeze.

Last Saturday was freakishly cold. I, of course, was inappropriately dressed. The next morning, I was talking with a Korean friend online and he told me that he'd been up since early early because his pipes froze. I joked that if mine had done the same, he would have to come defrost mine, too. Thirty minutes later, I turn on my sink to brush my teeth.....and guess what doesn't come out.

Fast forward through the crying and the completely helpless internet searches (yes, I know how to unfreeze a pipe - the problem is, I can't find where the heck it is actually frozen), until I finally get an answer: "We can send a repair man to your home, but not until tomorrow. Today is Sunday and he is Taking a Rest."

Oh.

So Monday comes. At 9:30 sharp, a repair man comes to my door. I'm not entirely sure what he says, but I know it involves yelling at me for being a stupid American and letting this happen (I caught the anger and the word "Miguk"). He turns my hairdryer on a part of the pipe that I had touched earlier and found to be HOT for a bit, realizes it's not working after about 10 mins, and leaves.

I cry more.

That day at work, I talk to Paul who shows me where exactly the pipe is frozen. Ohhhhhhhhhhh (I guess despite the poor aim with the hairdryer, the repair man did have a clue). That night, Paul sets me up with a heater pointed at the frozen pipe. I'm instructed to check it every few hours. It was a long night.

Tuesday morning comes. Still no water. However, the calvary does arrive. In addition to yesterday's repairman and Paul, I get a new repairman. This one has a fancy machine. I end up staying home until right before I have to leave for Chungdahm. Still no water. I am tired, and cranky, and my Giga kids are crazy because they're on vacation (PS: Korean kids always seem to be on vacation).

During one of the breaks (I've lost track of time by now), Paul comes in to tell me that I have water again (which he begins with, "Bad news" - I may or may not have crumpled to the floor).

Also, I got home Tuesday night to find that the repairmen smoked in my apartment while I wasn't there. I was not amused.

The moral: If your pipes freeze in Korea, IGNORE ALL COMPLETELY UNHELPFUL INTERNET SITES. Call your whitey wrangler/school/whatever.

FAQ:
How did you shower/brush your teeth/etc?
I bought a lot of water. My stove still worked. I learned that I can take an effective shower using only 2 liters of water.

Could you flush your toilet?
I didn't try that one. Let's just say that I tried to hold it until I got to school a whole lot.

So....what happened? Why did it take so long?
Either I am just *really good* at freezing pipes, or my neighbor did the same thing... They had to wait until he got home to go into his place and unfreeze it from there, too. He said that he would be home at 1:00, which of course meant that he was home by 4:30..

Summer ---> Fall

The last time I wrote, it was so hot that I wanted to die. I should be used to this, being from Florida and all....but it still totally kills me. Now, it's actually cool enough that at night, I kinda wish I had a jacket. My Septembers aren't like this - Septembers for me are usually just as godawul as Augusts, so I'm kinda liking this change.

I say this now, but snow will still happen.

Last time we talked, I was in the middle of intensives. The only thing that got me through was the knowledge of that extra money I'd be bringing home thanks to the extra hours. Unfortunately, we went from those extra hours back into our old schedule for just a bit, and then into a completely new schedule (for those who aren't in this special The Know group, the first two weeks of any term always involve more work). However, our hagwon caved and *actually* gave us a vacation - we got the 3 days for Chuseok (read the freaking Wikipedia page **). Yes, we do have to work the Saturday before and after, but that three days straight was pretty nice :)

Spent my Chuseok mostly with Siobhain, who pretty much is my Korean family :) We spent a lot of time knitting (because it's us), and going to cafes. Sio also introduced me to jjimjilbangs and.......I'm in love. Going to write a separate entry on this that is going to be so awesome and epic and helpful that I think Aclipse should totally feature it in their teacher blog section (hint hint =p)

My knitting has come leaps and bounds here. I don't think I've done anything that hasn't required some sort of pattern or challenge. Right now, I'm doing this cowl for one of my coworkers and a few other smaller projects, but I've worked up the nerve to start lace work and I'm making a shawl for mom that I'm *hoping* will turn out really nice (or, at least nice enough for her to think that I'm a total yarn genius). Gloves have proved to be a giant pain in the rear - I now understand why there are so many fingerless glove and mitten patterns on Ravelry and much fewer fingered glove patterns. For the 1% who are reading this and haven't gone "What is all this knitting nonsense", yes, yarn is available in South Korea - you just have to know where to look.

Finally caved and went to Itaewon (the foreigner-gathering place). I think there are two types of foreigners in Korea: the type that thrive for places like Itaewon because they can't handle all the unfamiliarity, and the type who avoid Itaewon because they think they're "better" than that. I'm definitely in the second group. Yes, there is a lot of ethnic food there, but there's a lot of ethnic food everywhere in Seoul...and for much cheaper, too. It's the only place in Korea that's really loud from people and not just city noises. Plus, as one of my friends has pointed out, it's also one of the few places in which strangers will actually know what we're talking about.

I've also made peace with the M-4101. I discovered the Jonggak/Jongro/YMCA bus stop. It's the second stop on the route (once into Seoul) and pretty close to a few subway stations. I found the line one station, and I have a sneaking suspicion that if I turn the other way, I'll hit the City Hall station which is connected to line 2. It's saved me about an hour of my trip into Seoul (arg..traffic between Jonggak all the way to the Myeongdong/Euljiro-il-ga (or ip-gu if you're talking to Calvin) makes me want to stab puppies). On this, I realized that I can get *back on* the bus here, and not have to deal with the whole ajjuma shove-fest to get the last seat.

** For the condensed version, Chuseok is pretty much the "Korean Thanksgiving", except instead of eating turkey and watching football, they give thanks/praise/etc to their ancestors and eat songpyeon (tiny rice cakes full of surprise goodness)...and, apparently, according to that Wiki page, play tug-of-war...

Public Transportation

Living in Korea has become a culture shock for a number of different reasons. The obvious aside, this is the first time in my adult (or at least old enough to be allowed to go out on my own) that I've lived in such a big city (yes, I know that I don't actually live in Seoul, but it's close enough). This is also the first time that I've lived anywhere in which public transportation is the preferable option. For my first several months here, I only used the subway. I couldn't really read hangul and I didn't know enough about where I was going to want to chance getting off at the wrong stop and then just getting lost.

Then came the weekend we went to Busan. I had a choice - I could get up at 5am and take the subway, or I could sleep until 7 and take the M4101. Guess which one won? The M4101 was actually a good "first step" bus because it has this convenient light-up sign that shows where you are on the route and a marquee sign that alternates between Korean and English (which, as I've discovered as time's gone on, is usually malfunctioning). A few weeks later, we had to take the 8201 to Gangnam, and I realized that I totally recognized the whole area and totally could do this By Myself. I stopped taking the subway and was bus-only.

Until the battle started. The M4101 is convenient, but not without a price. The M busses don't allow you to stand, so once all the seats are filled, that's it. And everyone who lives in Suji wants to be on the M4101 when coming back from north-eastern Seoul. It got to the point in which I would dread coming into the city because I just wasn't looking forward to the ride home (as Tim knows, that dread wasn't enough to stop me from our almost weekly meetings in Myeong-dong =p). I'm also not a general fan of the whole pre-boarding zoo. Koreans, who are polite people, become pushy and impatient when a bus or subway shows up. They crowd to the beginning of the line, and act as if the world is melting behind them and their only escape is that bus.

So, getting to the thought behind this entry (yay long preludes), tonight wound up with me on the opposite side of Seoul than I originally intended (I was supposed to meet a friend for TACO BELL which just opened in Korea, but he totally stood me up - otherwise, this entry would've been about how Taco Bell is just one of those American things that's impossible to explain to non-meeguks). I had a choice: line 2 to Gangnam and 8201 home, or just keep taking the train back to Suji. Being that it's been a while since I've spent quality time with the Bundang line (last time was either Aaron's Last Weekend or the time I was refused entry to the M4101 and had the convo with Tim about how I felt like Rosa Parks), I decided to take the train home. Man, it takes longer, but it is so much nicer! None of that traffic nonsense! It's so much quieter! The walk home is a pain, but it also made me feel less guilty about the....things I've eaten and probably shouldn't have *^^*.

With today not involving meeting Edward (oh he gets a name on the blog!) in Itaewon (omg, yes, my first visit to Itaewon - which I've successfully avoided for the entire 5 and a half months I've been here - resulted in me getting stood up! Jerkface...), Tim came to my social rescue and invited me to crash his dinner party with our mutual friend, Siobhain (yes, Macbook spell-check, she *does* spell her name with 2 i's), who has introduced me to the knitting world of foreigners in Seoul. She also sold me some of her stash yarn, which is pretty sweet seeing as my supply is running a bit low.. She lives near the Sports Complex, which is an insanely beautiful area! I'm adding that to one of the places I'd like to live while I'm still in Korea.

But Not Quite Ready to Leave....

As promised, I am going to write a list of the things I will miss about Korea. Which, actually, as this has only been 3 months, maybe I should call it, "The Top 12 Great First Impressions Provided by Korea"?

1. My students
I know, gag me with a spoon, but I love how competitive they are. I have one class who treats the critical thinking project like they are guarding state secrets. They get so competitive - even going out of their way during the post-presentation discussion to argue why theirs is the best. I also like talking with my older, more fluent students - they understand some of the cultural differences, so we're able to talk more about abstract concepts, and it's so amazing how smart they are.

2. The food
Just when I think everything is how-would-you-like-your-bulgogi-and-rice-and-red-pepper-paste-arranged, I eat something that's absolutely fantastic that...just can't happen in the states. Like my mistaken-not-really-bulgogi-dapbap. And kimbap. And kimchi mandu. I feel that in America, they'd find some way to deep fry both and just ruin them..

3. The foreigners
Now before you, "What?!" this one, let me explain.. Korea is a place where you form connections with people just because they happen to speak English, and I've found that I've become really good friends with people who I wouldn't have hung out with at home. That sounds a bit backhanded, so I'm going to clarify that I am so excited that being this minority has given me the chance to meet all of them. I've definitely learned a lot about myself and branched out with the person that I am (stop me before this gets too Hallmark).

4. Lotte
Yeah, had to do a u-turn after that last one =p. I love just wandering around Lotte and people watching. It's a lot like being at Target, but different - mostly because I don't spend the insane amount of money (because I'm not a Korean size in anything =p). I love the combinations of things they put together as sales, too - like the cream cheese and chapstick bundle from last week. It's such a neat combination of eastern and western cultures, too - like even though it is the Korean version of a Super Target, there's still a bit of that at-the-marketplace culture, with the workers trying to get you to buy something, or show you something, or help you choose an item.

5. The fashion
Again, a shallow idea that runs a bit deeper. I love the way Koreans - both men and women - dress. There's something about it that is insanely fashionable, but still tasteful - a concept that I think we're lacking in the US. I love that I haven't had to tell a preteen male to pull up his pants - something that I had to say at least twenty times a day while teaching in America. I love that the girls don't put their developing cleavage on display. I love that everyone dresses constantly to make an impression - there's no way a site like "People of E-Mart" could exist. But, they do all of this without sacrificing the art of looking good. America's Next Top Model is starting to scrape the bottom with it's overseas trips (Hawaii, anyone?) - Seoul would be such a fantastic destination. But, then we'd have Tyra Banks here. Not sure how I'd feel about that one...

6. The efficiency
I was talking about my students with this one - Koreans just make everything easy. Sometimes, I feel like America goes out of it's way to make things complicated just because they can. In class, I referenced the sloped conveyer-belt-people-mover at the back of Lotte so that you can take your cart upstairs without having to push it up some ramp. I'm sure that those exist in America, but not in any stores I visited. I'm sure after I post this, I'll think of some fantastic example - so think of the Lotte one as a place-holder =p

7. The Korean boys
I don't think an explanation is necessary =p

8. Indecision corner and restaurant alley
Every night when we go out to dinner, we always head to the same spot, then stand in a circle and do the, "Okay, where are we going to eat tonight?" Eventually, Aaron will look at one of us and say, "______, it's your special day - where do you want to eat?" and we all echo with, "Yeah, it's your special day..". We always end up at one of the same four places, and I always order the same thing, but for some reason, it doesn't seem repetitive (at least not to me).

9. Kimchi at pork-bone-soup and that one place I went that Aaron knows the name of
My first week in Korea, the coworkers took me to this place that served only pork bone soup - literally, soup with a big pork bone in it. I wasn't a big fan - it was kinda oily, and I had a hard time picking the meat pieces off of the bone. However, that place had some of the *best* kimchi I've ever had, and have since been on a hunt to find some that I like just as much but at a restaurant that served....not pork bone soup. I found it! But I have no clue what the place is called! I went there at like 3 in the morning with the owners of Underground (who, by the way, are completely awesome and the sweetest people on the planet) and was served....I have no clue what it was, but it was good. And, looking back, I really should've eaten more kimchi..

10. Pickled radishes!
Thinking about kimchi reminded me of this one. For those in America, when you go to a Korean restaurant, they usually bring you out these side dishes/appetizers of various simple foods. My *favorite* are the yellow pickled radishes. I have been known to eat all of them before my dining companions could have their turn.

11. The crazy drivers!
"Crazy" is probably not the right word. South Korea is a pretty crowded country - especially in the cities (where everyone lives). In America, we have pretty bad stereotypes for Asian drivers, but there's no way Americans would be able to perform the maneuvers that these Koreans do on a daily basis. I have a game on my iPhone called "Unblock" (the idea is that you have to shift around the blocks so that you can create a path), which is what the parking around the library reminds me of - yet there are never any dings or scrapes, which is what would happen if Americans tried the same thing. Traffic laws are also a bit different here - Koreans are more into the U-turns than Americans (which is so fun to watch at intersections - a bunch of cars just turning around in unison). Red lights seem to be more of a suggestion than a law - especially for busses, taxis, and scooters. The horns on cars are also less obnoxious - not the loud blast like in America, but a softer tone.

This one is getting two paragraphs =p. I appreciate the drivers because of something I mentioned waaaaaaaaay long ago - Koreans have insane road rage, but they also have something that Americans don't: the ability to forget. They'll honk like crazy at each other, but it ends there. There's no worry that one will follow you 20 blocks out of their way just to get out of the car and yell at you (or worse) because of something you did to make them mad 15 minutes ago.

12. Subway shopping
Many subway stations here are set up like little shopping centers once you exit the turnstyle. The rule of thumb to shopping in Korea is don't go to stores (with my Lotte addiction, we know I don't follow this rule =p). Street vendors and subway shops have much less overhead so they're able to keep their prices down. I bought a scarf for 5000 KRW (like $5), and want to go back for more *^^*. Still have yet to start buying clothes here - I'm kind of afraid to start...

Bonus! 13. Dr. Fish!
I know you can find the doctor fish in other countries, but since this is the first place in which I visited them, I view the experience as something Korean. I want to go back! Also, the last time I went (when Laura arrived), I totally braved the "big-fish" tank and decided I like them much better :)

When talking about this entry to a friend of mine, his first reaction was, "You're planning on leaving already?!" Want to clarify that one: No! As I said, this is probably just the top 12 good first impressions that Korea gave me. I'm sure a year from now, the things on this list will change (and you all will be subjected to another list entry!).

Koreans and Disabilities

There's a guy in Suji with Cerebral Palsy. I've held the door open for him a few times coming in and out of the bank - every time I do, I get either glared at or stared at in confusion (Sean, if you read this - there's another stare/glare example..). Last night, when we got our freak March snowstorm (if it's not unusual to get snow in March, please don't tell me), we were at a pizza place commiserating over the latest (for another post), and he walked by. He slipped several times on the frozen sidewalk, to which the other patrons (high schoolers) responded by laughing. Now, I know that's a typical teenager response, but I feel that American high schoolers at least have that "accept differences" idea engrained in them so hard that the laughter wouldn't have been so open.

My Alba+ reading students (whom I love dearly) talked to me the other night about the Korean perspectives on disabilities. I forget how we started discussing the subject, but one (quite outspoken) student informed me that having a mentally disabled person in your home lowers the value of your house in Korea. This is so opposite of American viewpoints, in which we have pushed tolerance and acceptance to the top tier. In the American classroom, any time a kid might have the slightest difficulty keeping up, we storm in with our tests and our IEP's, whereas here the parents shame their kids into working harder so that they can stay on track. I had to explain to them the concept of a learning disability, and their reaction was to laugh. I'm conflicted over this - on one had, I think that we tend to misdiagnose in America because labeling a kid as dyslexic is much easier than working harder as a teacher, but on the other, I taught kids who had legitimate reading disabilities and were not dumb by any means.

Tomorrow, the same kids will be in listening where we'll talk about Bipolar disorder. I know how Koreans view mental and physical disabilities...it'll be interesting to see how they view emotional instabilities..

New Definition of "Alone in a Crowded Room"

It's kind of surreal living somewhere and not speaking the language. I don't know exactly what I expected, but it's not completely awful. The worst part about not having my Alien Registration Card yet is the inability to communicate with _anyone_. I pretty much have to take complicated plans with people as there is no way I can get any sort of message about where or when to meet. It's also frustrating with people back home - I'm getting quite a demand to call friends and family members, and I don't think they realize that me getting online is either a few minutes because I got to school early, and am on that virus-packed computer, or it's because I managed to find an unstable internet connection at a local coffee shop. I feel guilty that I cannot stay in touch - especially during this first month - but there's really _nothing_ I can do. Korean law states that I have to have proof of residency to start something like an internet account, and I'm still waiting on that. Oh government processing time.

I think about the version of myself in America. I was so addicted to my cell phone and the internet. Here, not being connected is resulting in spending a lot of time alone, something I promised myself that I wouldn't do. I don't mind it so far - it's kind of a weird, adventurous thing, but I'm wondering when it will all seep in and I'll start getting lonely. I wish I was brave enough to walk up to Americans here and say, "Hi, I'm new in town and have no friends. What are you doing after work?" I'm still not sure if foreigners are allowed to band that kind of stranger connection (this is reminding me of Dr. Wilson's Sci Fi class - the whole thing about The Other), or if we're supposed to be trying to blend in. I see lots of foreigners together in this town - or walking around alone with a sense of confidence like they either don't need people, or are on their way to meet the scads of friends they already have (and don't need anymore, thank you), and it reminds me that I only know seven other people in this town. Maybe in Suji we're only supposed to hang with people from our own hagwon. If I weren't totally frightened out of my mind of getting lost, I'd attempt to seek out my training buddies, who I think are probably more in this whole, "I'm trying to meet people and be social" newness in Korea.

There are so many couples in this coffee shop. Every girl in Korea has a boyfriend. Ugh - that is something I definitely don't envy..

Holy god, if my parents are reading this, please be advised that I am not as miserable as I actually seem - that my coworkers are freaking wonderful and are doing a great job teaching me how to get around. Today, when we left Suji to go to a late lunch, Thanh and Dan pointed out the subway stops and bus numbers that get me back to Suji. A few days ago, Lisa gave me a subway map in English. I'm just sad because in two weeks, three of my coworkers, who make up the majority of our dinner plans, are leaving and I feel that means I should be officially over my New Girl phase and know how to do things like get around outside of Suji and order food for myself. It will actually be good that we're getting three new people as they'll be like me in wanting to get out and explore, as opposed to already having all that wandering worked out of their systems.

I feel like I need to be like Samantha in that last episode of Sex and the City - where she wipes her eyes and says, "Okay ladies, let's [perk up]. I'd like to show my face here again."

I'm labeling this post "pre-departure" for a reason: If I could go back and change anything, it would be learning hangul. Even if you don't know the actual spoken language, knowing how to read is insanely helpful when navigating the subway/buses, or trying to order in restaurants.

In happier news, I updated the photos in my Mobile Me gallery..

Fashion / Hello From Home

Everyone who advised to bring trendy clothes were so right: Korean ladies are so freaking chic. Walking around here is like being treated to a constant fashion plate - with as efficient as these people are, I'm so not surprised that the girls get up an hour early to be sure they look slammin' on the streets. Their hair is always perfect, and Korean ladies have the most beautiful shoes. The guys are pretty trendy, too - especially with their haircuts. Totally puts a shame to the way American guys style their hair: either clippers, or totally forget to use the scissors/soap period..

Someone on the Aclipse forum made a pretty snooty comment about how Korean women don't wear purple. Being the snot that I am, I'm keeping tally, and have officially reached the double digits. These women totally rock the purple - which they should, with their pretty white skin and dark hair. Wearing purple today to Training, Day 1 just to savor the moment.

I've been digging to the bottom of my suitcase each day to find my trendiest looking clothing so I "fit in" as well as I can with my short haircut and completely un-Asian features. Saturday was this cute little red dress with black leggings and boots; yesterday, I completely rebelled against the whole dark-clothing thing and wore blue jeans and a white sweater. At one point last night, I stood up and one of the rocks from my windowsill back home fell out of my shirt. It was awesome - like a little "Hello!" from home, or a bit of good luck for today's tests. The rock is now sitting on my bedside table, and I think it's going to spend training in my pocket.

I've Survived....So Far..

Hello from Seoul, South Korea! Unlike previously feared, I am not the only person in training. To borrow words from a fellow trainee, we are the most mismatched, eclectic group of people, but somehow it works. My hotel roommate is from Canada, and we've bonded over Degrassi and their awesome healthcare system. The two boys are both from the northeast and have bonded over the supporting opposing baseball teams. My only experience with northeastern baseball is the episode of Sex and the City in which Carrie dated the "new Yankee". But I think I'll keep that contribution to myself.

We'll get the obvious out of the way: Seoul is GIGANTIC. It is also insanely quiet and very clean for a city of this size - which I'm sure is due not only to the diligent street workers, but also the general politeness of the people...I bet Koreans just don't litter. I still haven't figured out the whole politeness/insane road rage connection with Koreans, but am sure it must relate to the whole big-city life. I think what makes traffic work in Korea is that after they get cut off by someone, or almost rear end another, they move on and don't hold a grudge. This would never happen in America - we're famous for following people back to their houses and letting them know just how much we don't appreciate their changing lanes without signaling. If Americans drove like Koreans, there would be many many more vehicular homicides.

One of my training buddies became an exploring buddy when we ventured out twice to get the lay of the land (and by "the land", we mean "the block around the hotel"). We got lost twice - the first time, I tried asking directions using my Pimselur-gained Korean, but I think all that resulted from that conversation was both of us understanding that the hotel was not at that particular restaurant, and that I speak awful Korean. There are American-restaurants EVERYWHERE. Despite being in a foreign country and feeling obligated to experience the food that this culture offers, I am kind of curious as to what they consider "American" food and kind of want to try it. I bet they are much closer than we are at our attempts at ethnic food. I did watch a commercial for a local Outback and saw that their shrimp were completely shell-intact. I'm kind of wary of that - do you cut off the heads and peel off the shell, or do you eat it whole? My only experience in a restaurant here tells me that Koreans have no problem explaining how the food works. Exploring buddy and I went to this Vietnamese place and needed a bit of instruction as to what to do with all of the various spices and sauces served with our Pho. The waiter flat out told me not to put the spicy peppers into my soup, which I totally appreciated. I did try a bit of the red pepper sauce and made a totally fantastic face. Thank goodness for rice noodles.

Posted some new stuff in my gallery - will make a post later explaining some of the shots (although, some do a good job of that on their own)..