Tuesday, May 28, 2013
Foreign Ideas
1. "Excuse me"
The joke among expats here is that there is no Korean word for "excuse me" (there is, it's just seldom used). It's the norm here to just shove past people. Somewhat related, it's also extremely common for someone to shove into a space you're occupying without waiting for you to vacate it (like a seat on the bus....I don't get it). After three years, I'm still not sure what to do when I need to get past someone who is taking up the entire pathway while they've stopped to finish their text.
2. The Sunday Couple Shuffle / Couple Red-Rover
I walk fast. I have places to be. However, Sunday seems to be the day that all couples have to go out and drag their feet. The slower they walk, the slower the day will go - duh*! I'd understand this, but they also like to latch on to each other and take up the entire sidewalk with their snail pace. Related: if they're walking toward you on a narrow path, don't expect them to detach. If you're in the mood for a game, keep your trajectory - see if they'll actually separate, or if you'll just walk right into their fused-together hands.
*Note: Students on their way home walk at a similar pace.
3. TRASH CANS
This is possibly the number one thing I'm looking forward to about being home. I've read a few blogs in which they've discussed this: what do Koreans do with their trash? Well, I know the answer: they pile it on any sort of raised platform. Or just throw it to the side of the sidewalk. I also understand why Korea is so trash can weary: very easy place to hide a bomb (we are just a few miles away from our enemies in the north). But it will be nice to have an appropriate place to put my Starbucks cup when I'm finished.
4. No "Servicee"
This is one I'll miss :( It's common Korean practice to thank your customers for choosing your place of business by giving them a free gift. Cosmetic stores give you free samples of their products (usually whitening cream and moisturizer). Restaurants give you a sample of their featured entree. Bars will give you shots. In marketplaces, it's common practice to ask for "service" when you've made a purchase.
5. Tipping
Selfishly, this is another one I'll miss. People here are paid minimum wage, and it is not common custom to pay anything extra for any kind of service. I've almost forgotten how it works - 20% is the rule of thumb, right? I've given a few tips - the most notable being an extremely large one to a taxi driver who gave me a free German lesson one Christmas. I'm torn on how I feel about the practice: on one hand, I like the idea that people who are better at their job get paid more; on the other, I know customers are people, and are selfish bastards, and don't exactly follow this ideology.
6. Spaghetti-Strap Tank Tops
This is a weird one. My first few months here, I was VERY AWARE of how Koreans don't wear anything that shows cleavage. They're becoming more liberal about shoulders: I've seen tank tops (usually with wider straps), but nothing that dips low. They will, however, bring those hemlines as high as they can without showing the goods. I'll try not to stare.
7. Customization
Around Christmas, my favorite Starbucks beverage is a peppermint white mocha. When I tried ordering that here, I was told that the peppermint mocha was a special drink and couldn't be changed. I also come across strange looks when I ask for an extra shot of espresso in a drink. At restaurants, if you try to alter the menu just a bit, it becomes way too complex for your server. Example: a friend and I once wanted to order a lunch set* that came with soda - we wanted to change the soda for milkshakes (understanding that we would be charged more). The server insisted that he would be unable to process that in the computer, nor would he allow us to order the items individually. There's a similar attitude behind ingredient substitution in restaurants (no, you cannot have salad with that! You have to have fries!). I get why: this is a culture where you accept things as the way they are. But it will be nice to be able to ask for no tomatoes, or only half the amount of syrup in a latte.
*I've kind of forgotten this isn't an "American" word. Set=combo
8. Overstimulation of WHAT EVERYONE IS TALKING ABOUT
Foreign languages are easy to tune out. However, when you live here, and hear English, your ears immediately go up and you immediately start to eaves drop. Foreigners?? What are they talking about??? A friend has described being in America after a long stint overseas as like being in the Buffy episode where she gets the ability to read minds: she is completely overwhelmed with all of the voices in her head.
9. Driving
Possibly just because I live in the city here, and in the country at home, but I will totally miss Korea's awesome public transportation. Yes, being on the bus is sometimes being like in the passenger seat of a NASCAR race, but it sure beats having to get yourself there. Here, I spend about $40 a week on transportation - at home, it was hundreds (could be up to thousands if you consider car payments and maintenance). Busses go everywhere - and, if you don't understand how they work, the subway works just fine. Trains are still a thing here - the KTX will get you to Busan faster than a car.
10. Non-Neutral Cars
This is a small one, but as right now I'm sitting at a cafe next to a window, it comes to mind. A good 90% of cars (this is not an exact figure =p) are white, gray/silver, and black. Weeks can go by before I see a red car. Months for colors like yellow and blue. A few years ago, Daewoo made a cute little lime green hatchback, but those have mostly disappeared from the roadway. This is a culture that likes to blend in - national identity is much more important than individual identity - and it's reflected in almost all outward appearances.
Thursday, April 4, 2013
So... You Lost Your ARC and Bank Card in Korea.... (me too....)
I know this doesn't seem like a logical first step, but it needs to happen. In your home country, this is stressful enough, but in a foreign country, it just maximizes. You need to freak out and get it all out of your system, and the best place to do this is in the confines of your own apartment (as opposed to being That Girl Who Cries on the Subway). Once you're done freaking out, remind yourself that if I, a complete idiot (go read the entry about the time I almost crawled under the bus to save my cellphone for proof) can do this, so can you.
If you've lived here long enough, you know that you can just draw a happy face on the sign pad and they'll accept that as your signature in stores. I know two people who actually sign their name, and I think both are completely endearing. Most banks have an English hotline (Shinhan's is 1577-8380) and they'll put a stop on everything. You'll probably also want to know if your account has been used. If you don't know your number (which I didn't - I was on the subway....being That Girl Who Cries on the Subway), they can actually run it through the phone, and you just need to key in your PIN.
This was the part that inspired me to make this blog post as there were so many conflicting answers about what happens at immigration at this point. I know Korea tends to make up procedures as it goes, so what happened to me may not necessarily happen to you. You will need your passport, at least 30,000KRW, and a passport photo.
- Immigration won't keep your passport. But go to the bank first, just in case
- You probably won't get a debit card replacement using your passport. Withdraw enough money for the next few weeks.
- It will take up to 3 weeks to get a new ARC
- You don't need to fill out a police form
- The bigger the bank, the more they'll work with you. If you live near a bigger city, go there to see if they'll let you get card replacements.
Saturday, October 29, 2011
Winning at Public Transportation
So, it's been a while. In short (like tiny short), being an HI is super time consuming this term, I've been knitting a lot, and....I'm just bad at communicating with America.
But I learned a huge lesson today. Went yarn shopping with Jenny and Julie. Meant to buy nothing, but bought...not quite everything, but enough to make a cardigan, hat, and scarf. The way home involved the bus stop that is pretty much the bane oft existence. M4101 came, I ran for it, AND MY iPHONE FELL OUT OF MY POCKET AND UNDER THE BUS. Adrenaline kicked in, and it was pretty much the most traumatic thing that has happened in my life. I crouched in front of it and debated the merits of crawling under the bus to get it (DON'T WORRY MOM AND DAD, I DIDN'T). The logic was helped by the fact that I'd already finished the episode of Project Runway stored in my videos. The bus pulls out, and I wave my arms like the foreign idiot I am so the next bus (which was the only other bus I could taken home) doesn't roll over it. The driver looks at me in total confusion, assumes I am crazy, and chooses to just go around me as even though he doesn't want me on his bus, he still doesn't want to deal with all the insurance involved if he did run me over.
At this point I'd like to reassure my parents that although it was a busy street, it was the bus lane, and there was only one bus there. I wasn't in any danger ever - im just exaggerating for dramatic effect.
Okay, remember the part where bus number two was the other bus I could've taken home? Well, I missed it. I we t back to the standing area, still full of adrenaline. At this point, the adrenaline really has nowhere to go, so I start shaking. Now tue people who witnessed my phone rescue - who didn't actually see what I was doing (they just saw me jump in front of a bus, wave frantically, and then squat down in front of it) - now think that I am severely deranged.
This perception ends up working in my favor when M4101 number 2 pulls up. No one wants to get in the way of the crazy girl (even a few ajummas let me go in front of them). I am the LAST PERSON able to get on the bus (as mentioned in previous entries, M busses are luxury and don't let you sit down (no, the reason is not because they go on the highway, as plenty of other busses go onthe highway and let people stand in every cranny, including the steps RIGHT NEXT TO THE DOORS).
Said last seat is ALL THE WAY IN THE BACK. Remember, I'm holding a lot of yarn. I proceed to hit every single ajumma and ajoshi in the head with it as I walk by. Fortunately, I'd given the complimentary needles to Julie, so no one got stabbed.
Moral of the story? Kangaroo pouch pockets are terrible places for phones.
Saturday, June 18, 2011
Adding to the Zillions of Posts Out There on the Subject..
Keep in mind..as my title says, there are zillions of these lists out here. When you pack, just think about the number one traveling debate, and decide which side you're on: spend a lot of money upon arrival vs. have a freaking heavy suitcase. If money is a concern, then bring the stuff that you know you'll need despite whether or not it's in Korea.
Bring this...
Clothes for work and play *this season*. I know this is a given, but the part between the asterisks is key.
Not that..
Your entire wardrobe. One, you can buy clothes *everywhere* in Korea. I know there are a lot of blog posts out there about Korean sizes, but (and this is more for the ladies because I don't really buy mens clothes), non-Asian stores like H&M carry pants up to a 34" waist. The biggest I've seen at Gap is a size 8 (maybe 10); non jeans-wise, clothes can go much bigger - I've seen tops and dresses up to a 2XL. If you are living near Seoul, definitely be able to count on buying clothes and shoes at any size.
Two, your weight will fluctuate here. It's the kimchi =p
Bring this...
A few keepsakes and momentos from home.
Not that..
Stuff for apartment decoration. Korea is the *cutest* country on the planet and there are entire stores dedicated to home decor.
Bring this...
An e-book reader. If you don't have one, go buy one.
Not that...
Books. They are heavy, and you will have a freaking tiny apartment with little storage space.
Bring this...
Headache medicine. Yes, you can get it here, but unlike America (or wherever "back home" is), you can't just walk into the convenience store and get it. All medicines (and bandages above the standard bandaid size) are sold only at the pharmacy, which is not open 24 hours. Most medicines are pretty cheap - however, ibuprofen can run $3 for a pack of 10.
Not that...
Your entire cosmetics line. Korea is *full* of skin care shops that sell the same stuff we get in America. There is a Body Shop around every corner. As far as makeup goes, the non-Korean stores sell pretty much the same products they do at home; the first floor of department stores is also dedicated to cosmetics (and luxury handbags).
**Note: If you have darker skin, bring face makeup.
Bring this..
One voltage converter/plug adapter. Your camera and laptop if you already own one.
Not that...
A voltage converter/plug adapter for every single electronic device you own. You can buy them here much cheaper than you can overseas. A few months after arriving, I bought new chargers for my iPod because the adapters do make things a bit finicky.
You can get all of this here....
- Bedding INCLUDING sheets. I'm not sure who started the rumor that Koreans don't sell sheets but...come on. They have to sleep here too =p
- A mattress pad - I read someone's blog in which she said this was the one thing she was glad she brought because beds are so hard. Well, that's true, but you can buy one of the mats Koreans use to sleep on the floor and just put it on your bed...much softer =p
- Hair products - Yes, Korean hair is a bit different than ours, but there are stores like Watsons that sell non-Korean brands
- Writing utensils - They are easier found here than America
- Peanut butter - Again, who started this rumor? You can get this here...
- iPhones - The Korean network is locked, and you'll have to go directly to the KT main office (no clue where that is) to get your phone on the network. I have an iPhone here...I didn't have to pay for it up front - rather, they took the cost of my phone and the cost of 2 years of service, divided that by 24, and that's my bill...I pay like $75/month for my iPhone (again, that includes the cost of the actual device
- Speakers - One, you can get them here. Two, walls are THHINNNNN - you will disturb your neighbors
- Comfortable walking shoes - Korea is full of Nike, New Balance, Adidas, etc. stores - there's even a shop that sells all of them: ABC Mart (yes, I know, every time I see one, I think about the liquor store =p). These shoes are pretty unisex, and come in a pretty big array of sizes.
- Korean language and travel books - Most major bookstores have a fair sized English section...and all of them have info on living in Korea. If you are going to study Korean before you leave, learn the alphabet, familiarize yourself with the basic foods, and learn phrases handy for shopping and ordering in restaurants.
Korea is a foreign country, not a distant planet. Stuff can be shipped here. Likewise, Koreans are a different culture, not an alien race. They do the same things we do: sleep, eat, travel, work, and play; and they use pretty much the same things we do for those activities. There is nothing you won't miss for a year, I promise. Most of the stuff I brought is now either too big, or has been shoved in a box under my bed, almost completely forgotten...
Wednesday, June 15, 2011
This is What It Looks Like When I'm Not at Work =p
I knew that moving to Korea would change me, but something has happened that I wasn't prepared for. In college, I was surrounded by people who were going to be teachers. Then I got a job as a teacher in America. Both groups had something in common: teaching was their thing. There was no something else.
Well, that's not what happens in Korea. Getting into this, I knew that Chungdahm *wasn't* a job where I'd be surrounded by people who had the same life experience. I remember in my last conversation with my Footprints recruiter, we talked about how hagwons weren't something that would further my teaching career the way a public school teaching job would. That said, I think I did make the right decision. Chungdahm (or, well, my coworkers here) have definitely stopped me from taking myself so seriously, and have made me a much calmer person who doesn't stress *nearly* as much about the small things.
As a teacher, Chungahm has taught me a lot about being an instructor. There is a difference - a teacher has much more ownership of what they do, an instructor just kind of passes on what other people create. Even though the former is a profession and the latter a job, I think that teachers do need to know how to be instructors. It's a humbling reminder that I definitely don't know the _right_ way of doing everything in this profession. Although I think I've always been a strong writing teacher (my FCAT track record shows this), my reading curriculum left a lot to be desired, and I've definitely learned a lot about how to be a more effective reading teacher from CDI. Teaching someone else's curriculum has taught me how to listen to what other experts expect. It has an effect on being an employee. Teachers are terrible employees - we spend all day being The Person In Charge, and it's hard to revert back to the mindset that someone else is the boss.
Being Head Instructor has become this second chance for me to fix all of the mistakes I made as Building Leader at AOE. I've learned so much about communication with employees (as opposed to a vague, "yeah...do....thiiiissss..."), and the best ways to talk to people when you want them to do something. Still working on the last one.
Back to the point I brought up earlier: working here has put me around people for whom this job is just a stopping point between college and real life. Teaching isn't their real life. And for the first time, I'm around the idea that maybe this isn't it - which is kind of frightening. Could there be something else that I'm meant to do? As of now, I'm thinking no - as much as I abhor school politics, I like kids. I'm still stuck on the idea that that's the most important part..
Also, the lyrics of "Drops of Jupiter" are either idiotic or genius. I still can't decide.
Sunday, May 15, 2011
Wait.....Times They Could Be A-Changin..
Immediately after that final comment about wanting an app, I visited the app store. Downloaded Blogger+. $1.99. I remember back in the day when all apps and songs were 88 cents (this was slightly after we overcame waking to school uphill both ways).
When I was in high school, iPods didn't exist. We just got cd burning technology, but it was still okay to make a mix tape. Only a few people had cell phones, and those had really limited ranges - as in it cost more if you used it outside of your region, or called long distance.
So we'll see how this goes. For now, look at this statue that a group of ajummas violated, much to our entertainment!
Saturday, May 14, 2011
An Update!!!
So here it is in what will hopefully be a short paragraph: I've been knitting _a lot_.
Actually, I can end it with that and we'd be all caught up :p
No, really. It's become a hobby I've stuck with, and something I'm really good at. But, since this is my living overseas bog, and not my knitting blog, I'm going to tryyyyy to spare my already too long entries and not post stuff about "omg I keep forgetting to cast on those extra stitches for the picot edge and I keep having to re-turn my work!!!" (an actual complaint in another girl's blog - for those who knit, you understand what a dumb complaint it is to have to turn your work....not undo stitches, just turn :p)
I got an iPhone. I know there are people who totally hate being connected 24/7, but I've found that this thing has really liberated me. I was always afraid of getting lost (as we have blog entries documenting how well I've handled that). The google map function has made me much more adventurous, and I've found so many new ways to get around Seoul. For so long I was taking a way to Myeongdong that took 90 mins - now I can get there in 45~
Before getting into a phone contract in Korea, you do need to know that they will charge you for the duration of the 2 years, even if you leave after just a year. If this is something you can't handle, get a prepaid phone. Korean iPhones will work in America - you have to request that KT unlock your phone before you leave (which will probably cost $$ and probably means you can't use it on a Korean network anymore). It's much more expensive and complicated to get your foreign phone on a Korean network - I've heard, at least.
I need an app for updating my blog that let's me post photos x.x. I'm sure that exists.
Monday, January 31, 2011
뜨개질 친구 - Also, Adventures with Cait on the Subway
Was a bit unsure as I was kind of inviting myself (something I have been taught from an early age is insanely rude). I tried calling Care - who didn't answer (because her phone is forever on vibrate). So I called Cait. Things you need to know ahead of time: I live on the Bundang/yellow line - Cait has to take that and then transfer to the pink line (line number....something). Here is an approxmiation of our conversation:
Me: Hey... so I don't think Care knows I'm coming
Cait: It's ok.
Me: Where are you?
Cait: On the train
Me: Ooh - pink or yellow?
Cait: Yellow
Me: .....Did you just pass Demon-san*? Are you on my train?
Cait: I don't know.. I'm in the first car
Me: I'm in car five
Cait: Did a train just pass you?
Me: .....maybe..
We both high tail it to the middle car and meet and laugh like crazy and scare just about every Korean in the vicinity. We also, as usual, seal the stereotype that ALL FOREIGNERS IN KOREA KNOW EACH OTHER.
From the *
Cait and I usually take the first part of the Bundang line home together. In that quality time we've spent together, we have renamed just about every stop:
First - you have to pronounce it like you're from the deep south: Booon-dayng (it's really pronounced "Bun-dahng")
Seolleung: So long Seoul!
Hanti: Haunted (but with cute ghosts becasue Care lives there)
Dogok: Dog O.K. (This, imo, is the best one)
Guryong: Grrrrrr yong
Gaepodong: Gay ddong (ddong=poop in Korean. Yes, we're 5)
Daemosan: Demon san
Suseo: Dirty station (Suseo, if pronounced incorrectly, is the Spanish word for "dirty")
Bokjeong: Bye bye Cait station :( (I think we actually have a name for it - I just keep forgetting)
Kyungwon Dae: (don't have one)
Taepyeong: Tapeworm
Moran: Moron (obviously)
Yatap: Y'all tap (at this point, we're running out of creative ideas....)
That's about as far as we've gotten. I think Sunae might be Sundae..
Yes, we are children.
At Care's crafting night I managed to actually FINISH A GLOVE. This doesn't count things like weaving in ends and seaming together gaps between the fingers. But let me tell you - if you've never made gloves before, FINGERS ARE THE WORK OF THE DEVIL!!!!
We also started talking about southern staples that we just completely miss in Korea....which may or may not have made the accents come out... which may or may not have made Care realize she has NEVER seen these sides of us before. I think that's why I have so much trouble speaking Korean - I naturally want to extend and soften vowels, and round my consonants.
Sunday, January 30, 2011
This Time Last Year (Or, the Obligatory "One Year!" Post)
Got to Korea! Somehow, Thursday got lost in travel. Found other Chungdahm teachers and have managed to get lost EVERY TIME we venture outside. Freaking out over test the next day.
Fourth Weekend in January, 2011:
It effing snowed again. Dinner with Siobhain and Care!!!!! The next day was dinner with Edward! (Much fewer !!!'s)
Fourth Monday in January, 2010:
Hahaha! Passed the test! And the medical exam! Got lost in the hospital even though directions included "Follow the yellow line upstairs."
Fourth Monday in January, 2011:
Taught the lesson I was trained on a year ago! I did much better actually teaching it than in mock. Instead of using the examples in the book, I created a whole theme of convincing your mom not to hit you (we were learning about arguments and reasons).
Fourth Tuesday-Thursday in January, 2010:
Eagle reading scares the crap out of me and I hope I never have to teach it. I may or may not have cried.
Fourth Tuesday-Thursday in January 2011:
Intensives over (kind of sad face because I liked my kids). Eagle reading is awesome!
Fourth Friday in January, 2010:
Yes! Passed training! Now to Suji............and I'm the only non-Asian here...
Fourth Friday in January, 2011:
More non-Asians. I am not alone (.."they are here with me..."). In one year, I have gone from newbie to most longest-lasting teacher. My English has also obviously eroded into....awful.
Fifth Weekend in January, 2010:
Am so tired post-training and jet lag has caught up!
Fifth Weekend in January, 2011:
Am so tired because we have to work!
I remember telling myself that it would become much easier once I got in there and started working. I was right. Signed a contract to stay another year. As with all jobs, there definitely are things that aren't exactly stellar, but I know Chungdahm's shortcomings and can deal with them. I really like my students. I can tell that I'm getting bored with the curriculum, though - I go off book probably more than I should. However, Chungdahm is a business, and my students like my class, and they come back.
I'll be honest, this hasn't been a huge journey of self-discovery. I haven't changed or assimilated into Eastern culture. Heck, I have barely learned Korean. But I think I might be happier. This job is much less stressful - mostly becuase I'm responsible for SO MUCH LESS. I have probably become lazy (shh, don't tell my parents), but I've also learned how to teach someone else's curriculum - which is a good balance from what I was doing before (writing everything myself). It's definitely been a lesson in humility.
I have noticed a few ways I've changed. I used to correct people a lot - don't do that as much as I used to. I also quit saying "y'all" (with the exception of the text I sent Cait earlier - but she's from the South, so she gets it ;)). And, if it's at all possible, I think I cook less.
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
Misadventures of Mul Opesayo
Here, it gets cold enough for pipes to freeze.
Last Saturday was freakishly cold. I, of course, was inappropriately dressed. The next morning, I was talking with a Korean friend online and he told me that he'd been up since early early because his pipes froze. I joked that if mine had done the same, he would have to come defrost mine, too. Thirty minutes later, I turn on my sink to brush my teeth.....and guess what doesn't come out.
Fast forward through the crying and the completely helpless internet searches (yes, I know how to unfreeze a pipe - the problem is, I can't find where the heck it is actually frozen), until I finally get an answer: "We can send a repair man to your home, but not until tomorrow. Today is Sunday and he is Taking a Rest."
Oh.
So Monday comes. At 9:30 sharp, a repair man comes to my door. I'm not entirely sure what he says, but I know it involves yelling at me for being a stupid American and letting this happen (I caught the anger and the word "Miguk"). He turns my hairdryer on a part of the pipe that I had touched earlier and found to be HOT for a bit, realizes it's not working after about 10 mins, and leaves.
I cry more.
That day at work, I talk to Paul who shows me where exactly the pipe is frozen. Ohhhhhhhhhhh (I guess despite the poor aim with the hairdryer, the repair man did have a clue). That night, Paul sets me up with a heater pointed at the frozen pipe. I'm instructed to check it every few hours. It was a long night.
Tuesday morning comes. Still no water. However, the calvary does arrive. In addition to yesterday's repairman and Paul, I get a new repairman. This one has a fancy machine. I end up staying home until right before I have to leave for Chungdahm. Still no water. I am tired, and cranky, and my Giga kids are crazy because they're on vacation (PS: Korean kids always seem to be on vacation).
During one of the breaks (I've lost track of time by now), Paul comes in to tell me that I have water again (which he begins with, "Bad news" - I may or may not have crumpled to the floor).
Also, I got home Tuesday night to find that the repairmen smoked in my apartment while I wasn't there. I was not amused.
The moral: If your pipes freeze in Korea, IGNORE ALL COMPLETELY UNHELPFUL INTERNET SITES. Call your whitey wrangler/school/whatever.
FAQ:
How did you shower/brush your teeth/etc?
I bought a lot of water. My stove still worked. I learned that I can take an effective shower using only 2 liters of water.
Could you flush your toilet?
I didn't try that one. Let's just say that I tried to hold it until I got to school a whole lot.
So....what happened? Why did it take so long?
Either I am just *really good* at freezing pipes, or my neighbor did the same thing... They had to wait until he got home to go into his place and unfreeze it from there, too. He said that he would be home at 1:00, which of course meant that he was home by 4:30..